Chicago vs NYC and Chicago at Christmas

Chicago is the American city that gave the world the skyscraper, and it still shows off its skyline better than almost anywhere. Glide along the Chicago River on an architecture cruise as guides decode Art Deco towers, glassy modern giants and the movable bridges overhead. Stroll Millennium Park to see your reflection bend in Cloud Gate, then follow the Riverwalk past cafes, kayakers and wine bars tucked below street level. Dinner means deep-dish pizza, a buttery, cheese-loaded pie that takes about 40 minutes to bake and is worth every one, though locals will also steer you toward tavern-style thin crust and an Italian beef. Evenings belong to Lake Michigan: ride a bike along the Lakefront Trail and watch the towers catch the last light at sunset. The L trains make it easy to roam without a car, from Loop landmarks to neighborhoods like Wicker Park and Lakeview. Stay longer and add the Art Institute's world-class collection, Navy Pier, a game at Wrigley Field, the lakeside Museum Campus and the free Lincoln Park Zoo. Summer brings festivals and patio season; winter brings serious cold, but also holiday markets and cozy blues clubs.

This holiday lights trip pairs two of America's most festive winter cities: three days in New York, then a short flight to Chicago for two more. In Manhattan, stand beneath the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree as skaters circle the rink below, browse the glass kiosks and free-admission ice rink of Bryant Park's Winter Village and walk Fifth Avenue's elaborate department store windows and light shows. Ride the subway to Brooklyn for Dyker Heights, where homeowners cover entire houses in lights, inflatable Santas and animated nutcrackers. In Chicago, sip hot spiced wine from a boot-shaped mug at the German-style Christkindlmarket in Daley Plaza, stroll the Magnificent Mile beneath trees strung with more than a million lights, skate at the McCormick Tribune Ice Rink in Millennium Park and end at Lincoln Park ZooLights, a glowing, family-friendly tradition. The best window is mid-November to early January: markets generally run from mid-November to Christmas Eve, the Rockefeller tree is lit in early December and most displays stay up into the new year. Visit before December 23 to catch everything open. Pack a warm coat, hat and gloves, because Chicago nights often dip into the 20s, and book hotels early.